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Why we need to protect Katahdin Lake
(c) 2003, 2005 Jym St. Pierre

Katahdin Lake is the locus of the most important unprotected forest remaining in Maine. It is also where the most important artists of Mount Katahdin have intersected over the past century and a half. This combination of natural and cultural significance places the Katahdin Lake area at the top of the list of urgent Maine land conservation priorities.

As early as 1855, on his way down the East Branch Penobscot River, Frederic Church stayed at the Hunt Farm, an outpost established in the mid 1830s by William Hunt in the remote region east of Katahdin near the mouth of Wassataquoik Stream. During that adventure Church hiked from the Hunt Farm into Katahdin Lake and sketched the mountain to which he would return many times during the rest of the 19th century. Church, still only in his 20s, was on his way to becoming one of the most famous landscape artists in the world and the Katahdin Lake region became an inspirational muse.

There is a fascinating account of another trip Frederic Church made with friends to Katahdin Lake in 1877. The fruit of that adventure included a painting by Church entitled "Katahdin from the Lake," which he completed in 1878. That same year Church bought 400 acres on the south shore of Millinocket Lake and had a cabin built there, which he used for many visits to the Katahdin region until nearly the end of his life in 1900. In Church’s home, Olana, overlooking the Hudson River in New York is a painting of the artist’s simple camp at Millinocket Lake. The Portland Museum of Art owns the last great Frederic Church painting, "Katahdin from Millinocket Camp," a luminescent fall scene.

If Frederic Church overshadowed all the other artists of Katahdin in the 19th century, there were several notable painters of the mountain in the 20th century. In 1902, Boston painter and photographer George Hallowell visited the remote Penobscot East Branch region. He hiked into the Great Basin of Katahdin where he took photos and made sketches of the area. His painting from that experience, "Knife's Edge," is impressive. The following spring Hallowell followed the log drive on Wassataquoik Stream. He and his companions were forced into the stream when a terrific forest fire swept through the Traveler Mountain area. On at least one occasion Hallowell went to Katahdin Lake.

The best known artist of Katahdin from the past century was Lewiston-native Marsden Hartley. Hartley realized his long-standing desire to paint the mountain when he finally was able to make a pilgrimage to Katahdin Lake in October 1939. Hartley produced many sketches which, back in the studio in Bangor and New York, he turned into a series of celebrated paintings. Hartley died only four years later having achieved his personal goal of becoming the self-proclaimed "official portrait painter" of Katahdin.

The year after Hartley's death, his friend Carl Sprinchorn spent four months, from September 1944 to January 1945, in a rough cabin on the East Branch of the Penobscot. Sprinchorn produced some of his best paintings of the Katahdin region during that time. Like other artists before and after him, Sprinchorn visited the Katahdin Lake environs for artistic inspiration.

For nearly a quarter century, from the 1940s to the 1960s, James Fitzgerald traveled almost every year to Katahdin Lake. There he watched and painted. During a visit to Katahdin Lake in the summer of 2003 I got caught in a booming thunderstorm. I sought shelter on the porch of one of the ancient cabins in the cluster at Katahdin Lake Wilderness Camps while the rain and wind swept down the east slope of Katahdin and across the lake. It was haunting to realize that I was sitting on the deck of the cabin where James Fitzgerald had sat and painted so many times.

Many contemporary artists have used Katahdin Lake as a base as well. Chris Huntington is probably best known. Though each has a very different style, Huntington's paintings from Katahdin Lake rival Church's, Hartley's, and Fitzgerald's. Maine artists Abbot Meader and David Little have accompanied Huntington on painting pilgrimages to Katahdin Lake. Other contemporaries who have pained the mountain and the lake include Michael Vermette, Evelyn Dunphy, Milt Christianson, and Juanita Stevens Longwell.

Besides artists, many notable people have traveled to Katahdin Lake to seek inspiration from Maine's equivalent of Mounts Fuji, Kilimanjaro, or Rainier. Henry David Thoreau intended to climb Katahdin via its namesake lake while on a trip down the Penobscot River in 1857. However, his plans were foiled "on account of the sore feet of my companion."

Teddy Roosevelt did not let out-of-shape companions stop him. He passed through on an epic trek up Katahdin in the summer of 1879. On August 26 of that year, TR’s party of five headed east from Island Falls. They went 23 miles by wagon, carried packs about 10 more miles, then camped. "Crossing a stream I lost one of my shoes. Fortunately I had brought a pair of moccasins tied to my pack," said Roosevelt in notes of the trip.

The next day they walked to Katahdin Lake where TR observed dispassionately, "Black flies pretty bad, but they do not bother me yet." After lunch on August 28 Roosevelt's party left Katahdin Lake heading west to the mountain. "We caught about 100 trout at nearby brook, then got lost, and after tramping through frightful ground till after dark camped out by a small water hole, tired and hungry--but happy. There are plenty of fresh tracks of both bear and caribou...."

The next morning they "Started before daylight, walking straight through the woods, and then up Katahdin; it was very difficult walking, and both Emlen and Arthur gave out before making the summit, the view from which was beautiful....Reached our camp at Katahdin Lake about dusk....It is raining and we are all soaked through." By September 2, TR’s party was back in Island Falls. "I have enjoyed the trip exceedingly--am in good condition," he boasted.

The list of notable people who traveled to Katahdin Lake in the past two centuries is impressive. It includes not only world-class artists and future presidents, but nationally prominent geologists, botanists, entomologists, mineralogists, and writers. Mount Katahdin is no longer accessible only by water and on foot. Thousands of people drive to several trailheads and hike to the summit every year. Remarkably, by contrast, in the 21st century Katahdin Lake can still be reached only by foot or floatplane.

Not that there have not been plenty of schemes to build roads to the lake. In 1856, Shepard Boody proposed and the Maine legislature authorized a turnpike to Katahdin that would have skirted Katahdin Lake. Starting in 1879, the same year as Roosevelt's excursion into Katahdin country, Harvard geology professor Charles Hamlin began exploring routes in the region. In an article published a couple years later, he suggested construction of a stage road from Sherman to Katahdin Lake where a grand hotel would be built on the south shore to accommodate "the tide of visitors that must soon set towards Katahdin." From there people would be able to ride on a bridal trail to a rustic cabin in the Great Basin at Katahdin. "Later will come a hotel in the Basin, with foot and bridal paths to the summits."

Various trails and logging roads were cut through the forest expanse east of Katahdin in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Many of them passed along Katahdin Lake. In June 1848, the Rev Marcus Keep marked a path to the lake and the mountain beyond following an old logging road along Wassataquoik Stream for much of the way. For years Keep guided parties to Katahdin along the Keep Path, including many women. In recognition of his pioneering work, the Maine Legislature granted 200 acres on the south shore of Katahdin Lake to the Rev. Keep.

Loggers moved into the region soon after the Civil War. A rough road, known as the Lang and Jones Trail, was established to Katahdin Lake in the early 1870s and was made passable by buckboard in the early 1880s. Lang and Jones also built the first sporting camp at Katahdin Lake. A second sporting camp was opened on the south shore by Madison Tracey and John Cushman around 1896. That operation continues more than a century later as Katahdin Lake Wilderness Camps.

Mountaineers, scientists, hunters and anglers used these trails and camps for access to the wilderness around Katahdin. According to a history of the “August Camp” organized by the Appalachian Mountain Club, in 1887 an AMC party of nine men, ten women, and five guides camped at Katahdin Lake. From there they forged a new route up the mountain. They also hired Clarence Peavey to build a camp on the north shore of the lake, which AMC used as a base for excursions to Katahdin for years.

George Witherle of Castine, Maine, tramped by the south shore of Katahdin Lake along the Keep Path in 1880-81 on the first of his nearly dozen trips to explore the Katahdin region. Thirty-five years after his first ascent in 1846, the Rev. Keep accompanied Harvard professor Charles Hamlin to the summit in 1881. During the same period Professor Lucius Merrill of the University of Maine undertook a number of trips to Katahdin, including one in 1894 that took him along Katahdin Lake on his way to the Great Basin. After the mid 1890s, big game hunters went to Katahdin to bag caribou, moose and bear. Many stayed at Katahdin Lake.

At the end of the nineteenth century, the approach to Katahdin Lake from the east was still a rough excursion, but it was passable by horse wagon. An 1880s map, which accompanied the popular Farrar’s Guide to Moosehead Lake and the Northern Maine Wilderness, showed only one “Road” to Katahdin, the rude, rutted way reaching from the East Branch Penobscot at Hunt’s Farm, twice fording Wassataquoik Stream, and skirting Katahdin Lake on its way to the mountain where the mythical Pamola presided.

By 1920, the route along Katahdin Lake was expected to become the principal tourist gateway to the mountain. But it was not to be. Neither the turnpike charted and chartered by Boody, nor the stage road and grand hotel scheme advocated by Hamlin, nor other proposals to develop roads to Katahdin Lake and the mountain beyond were realized. Instead, roads from the west and south built by Great Northern Paper Company provided the major gateway to Maine’s greatest mountain. For decades the forest reclaimed the primitive logging roads and wagon trails built long ago around Katahdin Lake.

However, today new roads are threatening to fragment the area as never before. A flight over the terrain in the East Branch watershed reveals that during the past decade an extensive system of new logging roads has been slashed through what earlier observers described as "continuous forest." The area is not primeval, but the forest ecosystem around Katahdin Lake has healed since logging a century ago. The woods have regrown and are among the least disturbed in Maine now. This stands as one of largest blocks of mature forest in the state.

In addition to its aesthetic appeal, this intact forest has enormous biological value. A management plan prepared in 2001 by Irving Woodlands says that 5,350 acres have "characteristics of the old and very old forests....These areas are located surrounding Katahdin Lake." The Maine Natural Areas Program has identified 357 acres as a Unique Site containing red spruce, white pine, and red pine ranging from 133 to 183 years old.

The importance of the forest surrounding Katahdin Lake may be less well known today than a hundred years ago, but its integral connection to the mountain for which the lake is named has long been recognized. Many have advocated protection of both the mountain and its environs.

There were numerous calls in the late 19th and early 20th centuries for establishment of a wildlife sanctuary in the Katahdin region. A map of a possible Mt. Katahdin State Park, drawn in 1921 by the Maine Forest Service, shows a jut of land extending east to embrace the lake. Indeed, it was Percival Baxter’s vision that the state park he personally pieced together take in the lake. In a talk he gave to the Maine Sportsmen’s Fish and Game Association he said, "The proposed park covers an area of 57,232 acres and comprises the whole of Mount Katahdin, and Katahdin Lake, of itself one of the most beautiful of all Maine’s lakes, and which abounds with trout." Baxter ultimately succeeded in capturing all of the great peaks in the Katahdin cluster within Baxter State Park, but he was unable to bring Katahdin Lake into his wilderness preserve.

Proposals in the 1930s to establish a national park centered on Mount Katahdin encompassed an area larger than just the lands immediately around Katahdin Lake. They would have protected the entire watershed of the lake.

In the 1980s, The Wildlands Project called for an expansive Maine Woods Wilderness Preserve. The National Parks & Conservation Association suggested that the area qualified as national park material. The Wilderness Society launched a campaign to establish a Maine Woods Reserve, a conservation area that would have protected 2.7 million acres around Baxter State Park, including most of the watershed of the Penobscot East Branch. An even more visionary proposal for a 3.2-million-acre Maine Woods National Park & Preserve was set forth in 1994 by RESTORE: The North Woods.

Katahdin, the mountain, has been a magnet for wilderness adventurers and artists and conservationists for generations. Many of them have used Katahdin, the lake, as a base camp. Though not as well known as Yosemite Valley in the Sierras or Estes Park in the Rockies, Katahdin Lake is a location that must be considered a place of national significance in the history of wilderness exploration and landscape art in America. Indeed, Katahdin Lake Wilderness Camps have qualified for the National Register of Historic Places.

Despite the long-standing realization that Katahdin Lake and associated lands deserve permanent public protection, as much as does the mountain next door, the lake and surrounding watershed remain vulnerable. Irving Woodlands extended a major logging road across Katahdin Brook, just east of Katahdin Lake, before selling the land to Gardner Land Company in 2003. Gardner has logged much of the mature forest in the valley between Katahdin Lake and Wassataquoik Stream and has developed new logging roads that encroach from the south on old-growth forest stands between the lake and Baxter State Park.

Though still relatively intact, there is no assurance the forest surrounding Katahdin Lake and the camps hugging the south shore will remain unspoiled. The camps have been purchased by Charles FitzGerald (no relation to James Fitzgerald) to preserve them, but they are on leased property. The extraordinary forest near Katahdin Lake is being fragmented by roads and diminished as a wilderness recreation destination. The camps on Katahdin Lake are in jeopardy from those who do not share an appreciation of how they represent an irreplaceable epicenter for the history of art in the Maine Woods.

In an article about the 1877 journey to Katahdin by Frederic Church and friends published in Scribner's Magazine author A.L. Holley, wrote that "Few views of mountains in any country exceed that from the south shore of Lake Ktaadn in combined grandeur and beauty....[A]s I look over my shoulder at the canvas of my companion, I realize how inadequately it can be described in words...."

Yet, words are what we have and one contemporary author has encapsulated the sense of place as well as anyone. Susan Farewell writes in Hidden Maine, “The scenery around Katahdin Lake Wilderness Camps is gaspingly beautiful..."

The long-term destiny of the extraordinary forest around Katahdin Lake surely is that it be preserved for its wilderness values. But conservation-minded citizens should not rely on miracles. It is time for people across Maine and the country to stand up and be a voice for the public interest at risk in this magnificent wilderness.

Jym St. Pierre is a student of Maine history and Maine Director of RESTORE: The North Woods. He is working on a book on Art of the MaineWoods.

REFERENCES
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Austin, Phyllis. 2005. High Stakes Negotiations Over Fate of Katahdin Lake Tract. Maine Environmental News, March 1, 2005, www.meepi.org.

Austin, Phyllis. 2003. Irving to Sell 71,000 Acres East of Baxter Park for Record Prices. Maine Environmental News, August 27, 2003, www.meepi.org.

Austin, Phyllis. 2003. “Wilderness Advocate Charles FitzGerald Purchases Katahdin Lake Wilderness Camps.” Maine Environmental News, May 30, 2003, www.meepi.org.

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7/5/03; revised 8/23/03; revised 10/10/05